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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. However, nestled high among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This honour has left the family completely shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble restaurant earning such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary honour.